Scotty's Fish and Chips

Google "Best Fish and Chips Detroit" , one name covers the first page, Scotty's Fish and Chips. I've known the name since I was a little boy. My great grandfather, Bill Waters immigrated from Great Britain right after WWII and after a few years opened a restaurant called Fins and Feathers in Detroit. My grandfather and Scotty were good friends and it was said they shared the recipe for fish and chips. Though the name has always been familar to me, I've never been. That changed recently when Miss D and I set off for Fenkell and Lahser to see for ourselves just how good it is.

If you're familar with that area, you'll know that's it's bad. I mean it's bad even for Detroit but when you've been doing business in the same location for over 6o years, you don't just up and move. Cruising down Fenkell you'll pass blocks of abandoned business' and the occaisonal open store before finding Scotty's standing out like the last guy in Custer's calvary. If you're worried about security, there's a guy there who watches the cars parked outside. I mean, his sight is probably good enough to see the cars but I doubt he could cross the street fast enough to prevent a team of Brightmoor thugs from stripping your car down to the frame.

Once inside it felt familar. More in the way that your soul recognizes good things from your past than an actual feeling I've been there before. Everything about the place told me I was experiencing history. The table and chairs were original, the paint, wall coverings and decorations all were once new 60 years ago. Now, they're the character of the place, it's skin on the soul of Scotty's Fish and Chips.

The waitress took my order (as if she had to ask) and before she left, I asked her how long she worked there and if she remembered my grandfather. Since 1970 and yes, she thought the name sounded familar.

A few minutes later the owner Harry came over with a huge smile and told stories of about my grandfather. According to Harry, my grandfather (Bill) only called him "Junior". He recalled the last few times he saw my grandfather and my grandmother, "now Bill was losing his sight and it was getting harder for Fern to tell him how to drive. That was around 1972". I remember that quite clearly. My grandmother would tell him "a little left or right" as he swerved in and out of his lane. Harry also remembered that Bill would come into the restaurant once a week and cut Scotty's hair and that he would hand paint all the restaurant's signs.

After a few minutes Harry retreated back to the kitchen and the waitress brought our food. Listen, I know I'm known for hyperbole, but let me assure you, what I was eating was without a doubt the best fish and chips I've ever eaten. The batter was crispy and tastey and not a bit greazy and somehow the fish gave way in my mouth and was almost creamy. Don't get the wrong impression, the fish was firm but creamy at the same time. Don't even get me started on the chips. Hand cut perfectly fried crispy chips. Yes, I know I'll die sooner because of that meal but let me assure you, it was worth it.

While still basking in the glory of what I've just eaten, Harry came back to the table with a board. As he turned it over it was clear the board was a hand painted Christmas sign, created by my Grandpa Bill in 1964! Harry insisted that I take it with me. I really felt it should stay with the restaurant but he was adamant. Because I knew my mother would treasure the sign, I reluctantly took it with me.

If you love old America, go to Scotty's. If you love great old dives, go to Scotty's. If you love finding that odd out of place joint, go to Scotty's. If love and I mean love GREAT fish and chips, go to SCOTTY'S!!!!!!!

I could've sat there for hours and listened to Harry talk but Miss D and I had a date to see the Godfather at the old Redford Theater and had to say our "goodbyes".

Driving past the rundown stores along the way, I reflected on the stories Harry told me that night. I reflected on the meal I just had and I realized that tonite I was reliving a part of old Detroit while I was digesting detroit, one bite and one drink at a time.

My Mexican Adventure

It's already been established that I dig Mexico and am completely addicted to la comida Mexicana. So after reading a blog post from the Kitchen Chick (which if you love Detroit food, ya gotta check it out) I was inspired to head down to Mexican town and check out some areas I knew little about. Of course I knew about the restaurants on or near Bagley St (still love Lupita's) but I honestly didn't know anything about the area West of there. So armed with insight from Kitchen Chick ,Miss D and I went exploring.

With a slight tinge of sadness we zipped past the Bagley St area and much like the crew of the USS Enterprise we set out to go "boldy where no man has gone before". Well at least not this man.

My plan was to hit several spots which the Kitchen Chick reviewed. The first being a joint which specializes in goat. Can you imagine my heart break when I pulled on the doors and they didn't budge? Sadly the place which was to make all my goat tacos dreams (yes, I have them) come true, was no longer in business. As I wiped a tear from my eye we jumped back into the truck and trudged forward, saddened but not dismayed.

Next stop was El Rey de Pollo or The King of Chicken. Pulling up we could see the outdoor grill piled high with grilled chicken. Smoke and flame lifted the royal scent into the air and through my nostrils. It looked like Mexico and more importantly it smelled like Mexico. We went inside and ordered a half chicken dinner with beans, rice and salsa for $6. Best six bucks I've ever spent. The chicken comes cut into about 6 or 7 pieces, perfectly grilled with just the right amount of char marks. Chile, lime and salt season the meat and skin the way I'm certain they do it in Mexican heaven. For a Mexican joint to get my seal of approval they have to do beans right and they do. Whole pintos cooked simply and served in their liquid, cooked jalapenos and onions mixed throughout.

A great first stop on our adventure. We pointed the truck West on Vernors and were shocked to see a whole new world. Restaurants, bakeries, shops all Mexican, of every kind lined the streets. Much of it was new construction or newly renovated. And the streets were alive. People walking with bags from the shops we just passed. Man playing bones and drinking out of paper bags in a tiny park like setting. I can't believe I have never been down here before.

Just as we passed Livernois on our right a circus tent caught our eyes. Now this was no ordinary circus tent but a Mexican circus tent, "dios mio"! Not only was a Mexican circus in town but next to it was a Mexican flea market. Miss D enjoys a good flea market and I used to love going to Mexican fleas while living in Texas, so we pulled in. The market was just what I wanted, full of junk, counterfeit goods and food stands. There was a tamale stand, a taco cart and a pupusa stand. Though I've been aware of pupusas I've never tried one. Today would be the day. Three El Salvadorean woman manned the stall and made the pupusas right in front of you. One of the women took a ball of masa and flattened it out in her hand and placed a mixture of beans, pork and cheese on top, folded it over and formed a flat disk and placed it on a flat top grill. Once off the grill it looked delicious, but she wasn't finished. The dish is not complete without pickled shredded pickled carrots and cabbage and fiery fresh chile salsa on top. Good, like "just got out of prison sex" is good. I am now a die hard pupusa fan.

Still high from my pupusa enlightenment, we bought tickets to the circus. Now, this wasn't Ringling Bros quality this was my like Homey Da Clown meets Ren and Stimpy quality. First it was entirely in Spanish. We got an idea how bad it was going to be when the first act, "three beauty queens" made there way to the big top. Don't wanna be rude here but the one in the middle was better suited for plowing fields. The show didn't get much better and honestly if it had I would've been disappointed. It was cheezy, silly, corny and I loved it.

From there we continued down Vernors heading West. Again I was amazed, more restaurants and stores and people. It's going to take me all winter to uncover all that's there. It's truly shocking to see the investment and how well that area is thriving. I know of no one that goes down there and it's a shame.

Before heading home we stopped into Mexican Town Bakery. Its a modern, good looking place that honestly made me a little nervous. I like my joints to be run down and dodgy. Miss D and I over came our prejudice and struggled not to buy everything on the racks. We settled on four delicious looking yummys and were shocked when the bill came to $4. Honestly, just one of our items would've cost that much at Holiday market.

Mexican Town is not just Bagely St. Do yourself a favor, the next time you're headed down that way, resist the urge to go the tourist joints. Get outside of your comfort zone. Go where the locals eat and you too will be digesting detroit, one drink and one bite at at time.

Lupita's, Mex as it gex.

About 12 years ago I stumbled upon this small, kinda crappy looking Taquiera down in Mexican Town, called Taqueria Lupitas. At that point in my life I had been to Mexico a few times. Now when I say Mexico, I should clarify. I had been to what I call Disney Mexico. That is Cancun and all the fake silliness that goes with it. On the few occasions we veered away from Senior Frogs or the "Stupid Gringo, we really don' t serve monster burritos in Mexico" Restaurant, I really dug what seemed to be real Mexican food. It's been 10 years since I last ate at Lupitas and I've gained much more Mexican food experience. I've traversed the country and have eaten off of street carts in every city. I've fed my bean hole from every Economica Corrida I could find and I've swallowed Tacos al Pastor from Nuevo Laredo down to Palenque. I'm not claiming to be an expert, but I know Mexican food as well as I know any other cuisine. It was time to go back to Lupitas and see how they measure up.

As I entered it was clear some things had change. Now there was silly faux stones on the wall and a monstrous ceiling light fixture which looked lost and out of place hanging from the dirty, stained and broken ceiling tiles. In some ways it reminded me of Mexico. Outside of your tourist areas, restaurants and business' are often cobbled together in a quaint schizophrenic way. A quick glance at the picture menu board put me at ease. Of the dozen or so items only one, the burrito, is the only one I've never seen in real Mexico. Things, like Caldo de Res, Ceviche Tostadas or the before mentioned Tacos al Pastor are very familiar to me. One other thing had changed as well, there were more white people (Guapos) getting their fill of authentic tacos. Nice to see this wasn't a Taco Bell or Chli's crowd.

The main menu brought back a lot of memories. Cabeza tacos in Guanajauto. Carnitas Tacos in Ciuad Mexico. Cocktail de Camaron in Vera Cruz. Or just about everything brought back some kind of food memory. Some people have memories of sights or what they bought when they travel, mine are almost exclusively memories of food. My gut is my souvenir.

Our waitress brought chips and four colorful salsas to the table. A tradition that is only found in the states. They are available but you have to ask and pay for Totopos y salsa. Tradition or not, each salsa was right on the money. Pico de Gallo, limey with an actual bite from the jalpenos, smokey dried chile salsa, creamy avocado salsa and a blended salsa which for some reason was my fav that day.

Hoping to relive those memories I order the Al Pastor dinner and two Ceviche Tostadas, which came out first. If you're not in the know, ceviche is any raw seafood marinated in citrus. The citrus actually cooks the seafood. Lupitas ceviche is made with mild white fish, lime juice and a little Pico. First bite, hooray!!!! Delicious! I've eaten these on both the Gulf and Pacific coasts and these are yummy.

My main meal came to the table with a mound of seasoned, roasted pork, charro beans, rice, corn tortillas (the only way to eat Mexican food) and condiments. So I don't bore you with a detailed description and the hyperbole I'm known for, let just say everything on my plate was delish and spot on. If I closed my eyes I might think that I was South of the Border. Even the Spanish spoken at most of the tables would lead me to that conclusion. Throw in blaring TVs and the odd stray dog and I'd feel right at home.

Lupitas is the real deal. You may find the odd Tex Mex thing on the menu but please avoid those. Go for the real thing. Eat your tacos with corn tortillas, eschew cheese and for the love of god, do not ask for extra sour cream!

Soon fall and winter will force me into pants and jackets and I'll move from tacos to caldo (soup), specifically caldo de res or caldo posole. When I do I'll let you know. Between now and then, I'll be rediscovering my city, one bite and one drink at a time. digesting detroit es divertido y delicioso!

Taqueria Lupita Map